LensCrafts
Wood
Plans

About me

Baby Gator plans

Bass plans

Clothespin Luger plans

Cobra plans

Cutthroat plans

Dinosaur plans

Dolphin plans

Kangaroo plans

Lawn swingers

Lizard Plans

Luger RB Gun plans

The Luger

Rubber band guns

Scorpion plans

Shark plans

Shotgun rubber band gun

Snake plans

Star plans

Tarantula plans



Sitemap

Tips & Hints

Clamp assistant

Wedge clamp

Links

Homebr>
Home

Tips and hints


When using a stationary sander (I use a 4" x 36" sander/disk sander) use gloves to protect the fingers, these things really can bite!

Another way to protect those fingers - when sanding thin pieces of wood, make a small wood block approximately 1 ½" X 3" X ¾" and stick a piece of 2 sided tape to one side (also called carpet tape. Stick the thin wood to the tape.

A good all around sanding belt for the 4" x 36" sander would be 80 grit. When it is 'worn out' you can use it as a 'finer' grit for smoother sanding. Want to get the most out of that expensive lumber when making the snakes? Click here

Band saw blade guides wearing out, expensive to replace - make homemade blade guides from hardwood and don't be afraid to oil the area that comes in contact with the blade. I think they work better than the originals, the blade will stay sharp if you goof up and adjust them wrong.

Repair those expensive band saw blades Click here 'Round' the back of the 1/8" bandsaw blades with a piece of carborandum (knife sharpener) or grinding wheel for Dremel tools. This will help when making small curves. Also the tight curves are cut with the 'sides of the blade

Don't try to go too fast with the band saw, push the wood through slower and let the blade do the work. This will keep your blade cooler and sharper longer. This will also let the 'sides' of the blade cut better.

Band saw blades don't have to be adjusted real tight like scroll saw blades do, too tight and they will break faster.

To make small parts stronger, use "PC Petrifier", carried in some stores or online at www.pcepoxy.com it's made for rotten wood but works fine. Just put some in a small plastic sandwich bag and soak the parts a short time and let them dry. I use it, it works great. Now Minwax makes a wood hardener, really great stuff between 6 and 7 dollars at Home Depot and other hardware stores too, I just brush it on the parts, you can watch it soak in. It turns to plastic when it dries.

Drilled a hole wrong? Just glue a dowel in, cut and sand it and when dry, drill the hole right.

Make dowels fit tight but not too tight? Use tight fitting dowels, but sand a taper so that only the last part is tight.

No problem

You just put a leg or fin in and the dowel got stuck? If you try to twist too hard the dowel will twist apart, break or the leg or fin will break. Make a slim wedge about 1 1/2 inch long, 1 inch wide, with a slot (width same as dowel) cut from the thin end at the center about halfway up the wedge. Sand it from flat to 1/4 inch thick, fit the slot over the dowel and tap in carefully with a hammer..

As a carpenter once told me, wood glue will hold a long time, but glue and clamp (when you can) will hold forever.

When using a new band saw blade, sometimes the cuts are too wide. Finish the project, then apply a layer of glue on the 'loose' parts and let dry overnight, works great.

Keep a small wooden 'hand' clamp handy for the tall thin cuts, this will keep the work piece 90° from the table (band saw)

Click here for instructions on how to use a hand clamp so you can make those tough cuts on your band saw (works with a scroll saw too) easier. Clamp page And here for instructions on how to make a wedge clamp so you can cut those tough cuts on snakes easier. Wedge clamp Do you have any tips for this type of wood working? I'd appreciate hearing them.


Tell a friend about the tips and hints!





Copyright © 2003 - 2006 Leonard Wardle, All Rights Reserved